Cesta: Via Normale, 5a
Oblasť: Valsesia
Sektor: Torre delle Giavine
Typ: Viacdĺžková (Bigwall)
Hodnotenie: 5
Dĺžka: 4 m
Počet istení: 5
OS prelezy: 100%
Vyrobená: 01.01.1970

Popis:P1: Climb up a grassy gully, and move left at the end of the gully. Ignore the first anchor (for another route) and continue left on slab and up to reach the anchor at the base of a crack dihedral. 35m, IV+ (4b) P2: climb the crack dihedral, (avoid the huge unstable rock, marked with a triangle), and move onto a large detached flake called "Il Foglia (the leaf)" or "Il passo della foglia (the step of the leaf)". 2 bolt belay at the end of the flake. 25m, V- (4c) P3: traverse climber's right along the flake, then take avery exposed step from the flake to re-join the tower. Climber vertically for a few meters, then cut back climber's left along a grassy ledge to reach the belay. belay on chains, 25m, V (4c) P4: crux pitch. climb the crack directly above the belay, then move left along a crack to join the ridge. Climbing along the ridge is beautiful and exposed. The pitch become slabby as you follow the ridge, finally arriving at a large belay ledge. 2 bolt belay, 35m, V+ (5a). P5: final pitch to the summit. Traverse slightly right, then follow easy climbing (III) to reach another ledge, and then climb the few meters (IV) to the summit. 15m, IV (4a). Italian flag and summit logbook at the top. Descent: rap down the route. With double ropes, you can reach the belay ledge at the top of P3, and then belay at the top of P1, and then the ground.

Prelezy

# Lezec Dátum Štýl Názor na obtiažnosť Hodnotenie Problém Poznámka  
1 Poi 31.08.2023 Flash 5a 5   Team climb (3ks)